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my current 112 setup


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Old 09-11-2007, 12:54 AM   #1
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since tightvelle wanted to see it, here it is.
1 memphis power reference 12
1 visonik VB101PK 70 watt rms @ 4Ω mono amp
1 2.6 cu foot ported box tuned to 33 hertz (Fs of the speaker)


here you can kind of see the ports there are 4 1.5 in diameter along the top they are about 5.7 in long




more pics when i pull the box back out to cover it, or get rid the memphis and make it 2 12

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Old 09-11-2007, 01:25 AM   #2
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Looks good

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Old 09-11-2007, 03:17 AM   #3
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good setup..i figured out why it works better in urs than in my wifes. she has a bench seat. bench seats suck when u have speakers behind them!!

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Old 09-11-2007, 03:34 AM   #4
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i think another plus of this is that it has the ports exiting up, when i had my bench it didnt really have much of a problem with my 6.5s, i actually think it improved the tone on those.

what are the specs on your wifes setup?

a larger box generally helps plenty, as well as insulating it, mine isnt insulated yet, but once i get some insulation and get around to doing my other 12 it will get done,

when insulated make the box act like it is 15-25% larger. if it is a ported box you will want to keep the insulation a fair distance from the ports, i also think it works better to have at least a small opening from the speaker(s) themselves to the ports

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Old 09-11-2007, 03:43 AM   #5
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honestly i dont know the specs on her box. it has two tens and thats all i really know. her dad had the system installed for her before i even met her7 years ago! but another good thing is she wants to get rid of the bench and get civic seats for it so when that happens we can extend airspace for the box up between the seats some, maybe even put the ports exiting out between the seats!

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Old 09-11-2007, 04:05 AM   #6
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i personally wouldn't put the ports exiting from the same face of the box as the speakers are mounted in a single cab,

if it is anything like mine, it is impossible to get a long enough port tube when mount it there,
that was the main influence for putting them where i did,
i was also contemplating on the bottom corner of the sides so that they would be hidden and make for a cleaner look and reduce the possibility of stuff falling into them

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Old 09-11-2007, 04:11 AM   #7
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you can always cover the port with some grill cloth to keep stuff from falling into them. as for the port, i dont think it would make that much difference. what my plan was is to put the speakers behind the seats like urs but since there isnt a center console in her truck i was gonna make one and basically make it hollow and part of the box as extra air space and have the ports exit out of that either to the sides or forward out of the front of the console. im not an expert on it but in my mind it works!! lol

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Old 09-11-2007, 04:20 AM   #8
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the problem with that is that the console MUST be sealed AND permanently attached to your box,
you dont want your box to leak, from anywhere other than your ports.

depending on the size of the box and Fs of the speakers i would tune it to the Fs,

you also want to make sure you have enough port area in relation to the amount and x-max of the speakers.

all of these factors create a variances in the length, diameter or amount of your port tubes.

you will also need to know your volume to tune the box. a properly tuned vented box will have close to the same sound quality as a sealed box.



it sounds pretty complicated but once you actually do it its pretty easy

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Old 09-11-2007, 04:24 AM   #9
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yep. theres all sorts of ways to do it. i dont mind if the console is attatched to the box, once its in there i doubt i will be taking it out much or at all!! and if for some reason it would need to come out, either i can cut it out and make a new one to fit new requirements or take the seats out and wiggle it out!

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Old 09-11-2007, 04:33 AM   #10
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what does the wife drive?
you may have enough room just behind the seats,
the console thing still has me wondering, especially with it being like a tunnel rather than in with the rest of the box, in my brain it leads me me to believe that you may have somewhat of an echo from it.
basicaly it probably wouldn't have a nice tight punchy low end.

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Old 09-11-2007, 04:37 AM   #11
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well the white s10 that i posted in the other thread is hers but her daily driver is the envoy. the yellow s10 that u can see behind her truck is mine but is gonna be traded in or sold here soon.

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Old 09-11-2007, 04:39 AM   #12
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i see what ur sayin about the tunnel thing. hmmmm.....you make good sense. i dunno, its still a little ways off. we still have to get the new seats and carpet kit before we get into that

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Old 09-11-2007, 04:53 AM   #13
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i think you can also get more room by taking out the metal part under the back window in the back of the cab, i may do this on mine and just cover the whole back of the cab in carpet so as my box will set back another 3/4 inch or so,

maybe once i have some more money i will build a box that fits my cab better also, th 48 inches is still a bit shy on each side
but at the time i had the materials and i needed a bigger box, .6ish cu feet sealed wasn't cutting it for this,
i gained so much more frequency range with this box

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Old 09-11-2007, 05:11 AM   #14
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i will probly build the box with both mdf and fiberglass. suprisingly im more comfortable with glass than i am with wood!!

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Old 09-11-2007, 05:14 AM   #15
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i am planning to do my next one with MDF, i may try to glass it but im not sure on that yet

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Old 09-11-2007, 05:18 AM   #16
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i built a box a couple years ago for a dodge ram i used to have. the bottom of it was fiberglass with a mdf top. it wasnt the nicest box around but it was my first real fiberglass project and it turned out pretty well. it fit down in the storage compartment under the back seat and i managed to fit two 12" kicker comps in it. i dont think it had quite enough airspace for both but it sounded pretty good.

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Old 09-11-2007, 02:55 PM   #17
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i dont know that i would use fiberglass on its own for part of a box,
i would think that it would have some potential to break or at least flex from the SPLs
the less flex your box has, the louder it is and the tighter your sound will be

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Old 09-11-2007, 11:39 PM   #18
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think about this one brandon....they make boats...speed boats....out of fiberglass. yes it can crack, but if you take ur time and do it right then u wont have a problem. look at any car stereo magazine and probly75%+ have fiberglass/wood enclosures. it can be very very durable and rigid but u can form it to shapes that wood just cant take!

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Old 09-12-2007, 12:57 AM   #19
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yeah, i see what you mean, it just more of a personal preference i guess,
i just see fiberglass flexing more than wood and that take away from your volume/quality, but i was thinking about fiberglassing mine one i have it built to smooth everything out

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Old 09-13-2007, 01:40 AM   #20
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ur right, fiberglass will flex a little bit..im not arguing there...from personal experience ive had two twelves in both a full wood box and a fiberglass/wood box and even if the fiberglass did flex some i honestly could not hear any sound difference. do what makes you happen and more comfortable but as long as its done right there shouldnt be any difference in sound quality!

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Old 10-04-2016, 09:09 AM   #21
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Looks good

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Old 10-24-2016, 01:36 PM   #22
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you also want to make sure you have enough port area in relation to the amount and x-max of the speakers.

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