GmTruckHQ is the resource on GM Trucks, Suspension, engine information, Body Modifications, painting tutorials.  Modifications to suit every need, budget and whim
Home   Forum   Chat   Register   Today's Posts   Search  

GMTruckHQ is the premier GM Truck Site on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads. Please Register - It's Free!

Go Back   GmTruckHQ > Suspension Tech > Static Drop

GM Full Size Lowering Kits Information


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-23-2007, 07:07 PM   #1
04SilveradoTimmy's Avatar
Send PM    Add to friends
Join Date: Sep 2007
 
  04SilveradoTimmy is offline    
04SilveradoTimmy
Junior Member

I got this from the other GMFS Forum i'm on.

WARNING: THIS IS FOR NBS TRUCKS. SOME OF THE CONCEPTS EXPLAINED REMAIN TRUE FOR ALL VEHICLES; HOWEVER, THE PARTS FOR OTHER APPLICATIONS VARY!

2/4

As far as I'm concerned, most 2/4 kits are all relatively the same. The only one I've personally used however is Belltech.

For the front:
Depending on the cash that you have to spend, you have a couple options to lower the front. Most commonly for a 2" drop, drop coils are used. Over time these coils will settle approximately another 1/4"-1/2." Perfect alignment should still be able to be achieved.

Also, another option to use would be a McGaughy's 2" drop spindle. NOTE:McGaughy's makes two different spindles. There is a 16"+ spindle that will work on all wheels 16" and larger. However, these 16"+ spindles will decrease your turning radius. The better of the option would be to run their 17"+ spindles. These spindles can be used on all wheels 17" and larger. Also note, if you are running 17" wheels, you'll have to grind down the stud on your balljoint directly below the nut & cotter pin on it. Although this doesn't sound ideal, these spindles retain a factory-like ride and also keep the stock turning radius. Belltech also makes spindles. Their first design was junk from what I recall; however, they did revise the design and I believe the new design is a good design.

Back:To achieve a 4" drop in the back, drop shackles and hangers can be installed. Note that with these hangers (only on RCs and ECs. CCs hangers are welded to the frame) you'll have to remove the old hangers that are riveted to the frame. This is most commonly done by cuting a slot in the rivet and using an air chisel to bust the rivet from the frame.

Also lowering leafs can be used. These will affect towing capacity and leave the ride much spongier in the rear.

4/6

Front: When I was looking into a 4/6, I found myself drawn towards the DJM 4/6 kit that consisted of 4" LCA's and a flip kit for a rear. I am currently running this on the truck now. The only complaint with the DJM LCA's is that the alignment cannot be perfectly corrected without the use of Upper control arms. My alignment is however 1* from being perfectly straight. Also, with the LCA's, some complain of bumpsteer; however, I do not have this. I wouldn't say don't run the LCA's but I would be aware of these minor issues. Also, some say you can use factory UCA's and flip them upside down and get more alignment from them. I have not personally tried this. NEW AS OF 8/25/07: DJM designed new cam lock plates that allow for 2* more positive camber. This should allow perfect alignment to be acheived!

http://www.stylintrucks.com/part.asp.../categoryid/30


Another option for 4" of drop in the front is to use McGaughy's 2" drop spindles and a 2" coil spring. Both of these are discussed above under the 2/4 section. If I were to do it over again, this is the route I would take.

For the rear, the 6" drop is commonly acheived by a flip kit. The flip kit relocates the rear axle on top of the leaf springs. For an extended cab, you'll need to get the carrier bearing as well since you have a 2 piece drive shaft. You can also use drop shackles for 8" of drop.

Also, you can use a combination of drop hangers, lowering leafs, and drop shackles to achieve the 6" in the back but the flip kit is BY FAR the easiest method.

NOTE: With any more than 4" of drop in the rear you will want to cnotch the chassis, allowing the axle more room to travel.

Also here are the part numbers for the Doetsch Tech shocks to be used with the 4/6:
4080G for the front.
Use 4173G for left side & 4241G for the right side for the back.

Note: Its often a common misconception that Pacesetter LT's and ORY will drag below the frame rails. This is negative as they can be ran with any of these setups including 'bags.

I've probably forgot some things that may be relevent. Anyone else feel free to add more and I'll put it in the first post

_____________________________________________
-Timmy-

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

2004- Paint matched grille, bumper cap, mirrors, shaved tailgate and molded rollpan, Cruiser Alloy Fortress 20's, 2/4 McGaughy's drop, 06 Black Airdam, Esky Handles, Tinted Windows, and Billet Grille.
Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2007, 09:27 PM   #2
98SS's Avatar
Send PM    Add to friends
Join Date: Oct 2007
 
  98SS is offline    
98SS
Suspension Advisor

Nice info.

Added to the helpful static drop threads sticky.

_____________________________________________
- Tim -

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by 98SS; 07-17-2008 at 12:24 PM..
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
lowering kits, static drop, suspension


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


 


Vin Decoder Info